Georgie Kennett
Professional Make-Up Project
Lace Fronted Wig Construction
Making the Template:
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Do not gel the hair or wet it in any way just prep it as if you were about to apply a wig.
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Plaits, pun curls or french plaits can be used depending on the style of the wig and where the parting is located.
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Cross grip four to five anchor points with an optional one at the centre front of the head.
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It is helpful to have three people for a template fitting.
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Photos and notes of the style should be taken so that it can be replicated when applying the wig.
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Apply the cling film to the head in one piece, ask the artist to hold the centre front and pull the sides down flat so that it lies flat against the sides of the face.
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Cross the cling film over at the back and push down the top.
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Apply a layer of sellotape.
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Take eight measurements for the head, they are not used to make the wig but to check the template on the wooden block before making it.
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Measurements: The circumference of the head (2cm behind the hairline), centre front to nape (go no further than the crease of the neck0, width of the nape, top of the ear to the corner of the nape. ear to ear over the top, ear peak around the forehead, temple to temple across the forehead, temple to temple around the back ofthe head.
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Cut against your hand to remove the ear area from the template this prevents cutting of the models skin at any point, The back should feel loose so overlap the template slightly and tighten with sellotape.
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Draw on the hairline also marking where any partings are also write on the circumference of the head then apply a second layer of sellotape over the marker.
Attaching the Template to the Block:
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The foundation should be constructed on a wooden block, as a malleable block can distort and move, the circumferences are written on the bottom of the blocks which is nessessary when fitting the template to choose the right size.
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Cover the block with sellotape so you can draw the template onto it.
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Fit the template onto the block in order to visualise the wig, The circumference of the template should be touching the block. You shouldn't have to padd around the circumference.
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To divide the template into the three sections measure 6-8cm from the centre front and draw a dot and continue it round.
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6-7 cm back from the front lace is where the foundation lace should start. 7 cm from the centre back to construct a circle.
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Apply a foundation lace first and pin it to the block symmetrically, using 2 pins at the edges facing away from eachother to keep it taught.
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Overlap 1cm at the back and whip the overlaps then trim away the excess leaving 1cm.
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Make a small slit where the ears crease to make the seams easier.
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Fold the outer edges up and secure them with points proceed by whipping them.
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When placing the caul net you need to knot the hair as horizontally straight as possible.
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Pin the caul net, and pin the darts which should fall down.
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Whip the darts and two laces together.
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When applying the fronting lace, hold it flat to the face of the block, it should overlap the foundation net 1cm the pins must be quite far back to prevent the lace from ripping. darts must be minipulated to lie across rather than right down onto the lace.
Wig Construction
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Once the net is ready wefts of hair should be made and sewn onto the foundation and caul net. The hair is knotted on the lace at the front only.