Georgie Kennett
Major Project
Current Trends
The Backstage Tip: Put Skin First (Or Use MAC Strobe Cream)
Isabel MarantGood skincare is of course the base of any great beauty look, but with the enduring popularity of bare-faced looks it has become more of a focus than ever. At Isabel Marant, Sarah Chapman's Skinesis line was used to achieve a radiant complexion. Sunday Riley debuted its Pro Cleanse line backstage at Victoria Beckham for squeaky-clean skin, before hydrating with one of its stellar oils for a balmy glow. And if further glowiness was required? The products that cropped up again and again were the four new shade extensions of MAC's cult Strobe Cream - proving that (whether you like it or not), strobing is definitely a thing.
The Revelation: The Killer Cut
Alexander WangWe've all become used to seeing models with long, gently tousled hair showing off the latest collections on the catwalk, but this season saw a definite shake-up. In keeping with spring's trend for idiosyncrasy and individuality, casting directors seemed drawn towards models with the most diverse haircuts imaginable - from Ruth Bell's buzzcut to Isabella Emmack's boyish crop and Imaan Hammam's super-sized curls. Defining the trend was Alexander Wang's show, where hairstylist Guido Palau chopped several of the models' hair for the catwalk, taking almost a foot off Peyton Knight's locks. If you're craving a dramatic hair change, this is the season.
The Throwback: Nineties Liner
ChloeApplied all the way around the eyes and onto the water line, worn-in-looking Nineties eyeliner - smudging is a must, not a mishap - was a hit at the likes of Chloé, Rochas and Emilio Pucci. All three of those looks were incidentally created by Lucia Pieroni, who described her references for the latter as "Kate Moss, David Sims and Nineties grunge cool."
The Styling Tip: The Tuck
Christopher KaneNo, we never thought we'd get excited about cable ties as hair accessories either, but Guido Palau's plastic "necklaces" at Christopher Kane stylishly cinched in hair at the neck for a flattering take on the down 'do. The neck also proved a focus point at Dior and Mary Katrantzou, where ribbons were used - choker-style - to tuck models' hair in at the nape, whilst ribbon-tied ponytails at Oscar de la Renta and low-slung looped styles at Rochas and Balenciaga also drew attention to that most elegant part of the body.
The Colour: Blue-Eyed Girl
Jonathan SaundersBold-coloured eye make-up was a firm fixture on the catwalks this season, but the favourite by far was blue - seen everywhere from Marc Jacobs and Boss to Missoni, Roksanda and Chanel. The coolest iteration was arguably the Nineties (yes, Nineties again) electric blue liner at Jonathan Saunders, chosen by make-up artist Lucia Pieroni to reference the colour of one of the dresses in the collection.
The Debate: Team Red Or Team Nude?
Oscar de la Renta - Are you a red lips girl or do you stick to nude? It's a tricky decision and one that at New York Fashion Week Victoria Beckham, Oscar de la Renta, DKNY and Zac Posen all avoided making by sending out half of the models with one look and half with the other at their shows. The takeaway? Pick the one that suits your outfit best, and make sure the other is in your handbag in case you have a change of heart.
The Surprise Trend: Maximalism
Giambattista Valli - Bare-faced minimalism isn't going anywhere, but this season there's a stark alternative. From spidery lashes at Marni to neon eyes at Giamba and Holly Fulton, this is the season to run wild with experimentation - no half measures allowed. Individuality was a keyword backstage, with several different looks often being created for the same show. Think Anthony Vaccarello, where a soft bronze smoky eye for some models clashed brilliantly with the lipsticked eyelids sported by others. Or Giambattista Valli, where just eight of the models were given glittery neon eyes. Basically, if you're bored of bare-faced, this is the season to try something bold.
The Talking Point: Prada's Gold Lips
PradaThere's always one look that has both the fashion and beauty press talking for days after the show and for spring/summer 2016 it was the statement gold lips at Prada. Make-up artist Pat McGrath created the effect with her first ever product, Gold 001, which she officially unveiled in Paris days later. Go gold, or go home.
Popular Trends
Spider Lash
MARNI
The models had grownup graphic pigtails at Marni created by hairstylist Paul Hanlon. From the front all eyes were on the exaggerated 60s lashes, with wispy falsies applied by makeup artist Tom Pecheux.
LOUIS VUITTON
The hippy doll-like beauty was achieved at Louis Vuitton with an exaggerated lash look and miniature plaits woven into the models' long locks. Channel this come festival season.
THOMAS TAIT
The makeup featured exaggerated 60s lashes – proof that our obsession with that fashionable era won't fatigue soon.
MANSUR GAVRIEL
James Boehmer, NARS Director of Global Artistry, gave girls "chunky 'Twiggy' lashes" at this show in New York using the NARS Audacious Mascara.
JEREMY SCOTT
60s silhouettes ruled at Jeremy Scott in New York where makeup artist Kabuki was inspired by Amy Winehouse to draw winged eyelashes on the models using three MAC eyeliners. The bouffant-style wigs (as modelled by Gigi Hadid) were as cartoony as the collection.
Raspberry Lip
VICTORIA BECKHAM
The hair at Victoria Beckham by Redken Global Creative Director, Guido was a sophisticated, simple style full of shine. The orangy-red matte lipstick against dewy 'supermodel skin' came courtesy of lead makeup artist Pat McGrath.
MARCHESA
Lead makeup artist Gucci Westman gave girls dewy skin with the MAC Strobe Cream and SK11 Mid-Day Setting Spray. The main focus was on the lips, though - lined with MAC's Pro Longwear Lip Pencil in the fuchsia shade More To Love and layered with a matte pink lipstick to suit each model. The hair was center parted and styled in a sleek, sophisticated chignon.
ANNA SUI
Makeup legend and Covergirl Global Creative Director Pat McGrath set a trend for deep red lips in Spring. Well, why not? "Makeup is different now, you do what you want and you're not dictated by seasons," she said backstage. Gigi Hadid demonstrated this well. Her beach waves were adorned with Tahitian-inspired wreaths for the ultimate beauty look inspired by the tropics.
BURBERRY
The look at Burberry focused on statement lips with the iconic Burberry lipstick shade Oxblood and the signature Nude Beige. Burberry Makeup's Artistic Consultant Wendy Rowe called it "effortless makeup" and gave models satin skin with natural contouring and highlights.
GILES
The Giles show at London Fashion Week saw models including Poppy Delevingne rocking red lips – another sign that this shade will trend for Spring. The smudgy liner and clumpy mascara ensured things weren't too polished (this is London, after all), while the hair by the Label M session team featured a duel braided half-up, half-down 'do.
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
Matte red lips and lived-in party eye makeup set the rock 'n' roll tone at Topshop Unique. Get the details on the makeup look here. The hair, by L'Oreal Professional's Anthony Turner, was a mash-up of 60s, 70s and 80s-esque down 'dos, inspired by icons like Debbie Harry and Kate Moss.
Brows
EMILIO PUCCI
Inspired by 90s grunge, makeup artist Lucia Pieroni for MAC gave girls radiant skin against a "worn in for days" eye makeup look, with kohl liner applied on the top and bottom waterlines of the eyes. The hair was side parted with flat roots and a glossy texture.
DAVID KOMA
Andrew Gallimore, NARS UK Makeup Artist Ambassador, created this healthy beauty look with plenty of NARSskin Luminous Moisture Cream and Brow Gel. The side-parted holiday hair continues the trend for wet-look locks.
GIVENCHY
At Givenchy models either sported seriously elaborate facial jewellery (think layers of lace and pearl masks) or, like Kendall Jenner, equally otherworldly spooky beauty with bleached brows and shadowed eyes. We might nottry this one at home.
CHRISTOPHER KANE
Bushy "feral brows" trended at Christopher Kane where models showcased a raw and undone beauty look by NARS. It seems bold brows are going nowhere
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
At Oscar De La Renta, Redken Global Creative Director Guido gave girls a luxury ponytail. "I tied a piece of ribbon with one loop, so it isn't a full bow, around the ponytail, so it feels very romantic and feminine," he said. So does the models' matte red pout, achieved with the MAC lip pencil in Follow Your Heart. This is sophisticated glamour at its finest.
J.W. ANDERSON
Minimal makeup retuned to London Fashion Week at J.W. Anderson, where NARS products were used to achieve perfect skin and "bring back the brow bone". Will this spur-on the return of arches in place of straight, statement brows?
Graphic Shapes
FENDI
At Fendi in Milan, hairstylist Sam McKnight pinned the models' hair into faux bobs with deep side partings. Makeup was minimal save for bold floating eyeliner by makeup artist Peter Philips. Well, that's one way to achieve a wide-eyed look.
MAX MARA
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux transformed the models' brows into amazing graphic shapes of orange and green for a bold beauty look at Max Mara.
Favourite Looks
