Georgie Kennett
Animal Testing for Cosmetics
The video above is a distressing clip showing the cruelty and pain animals go through so that consumer products can be sold. Animals are tested by thousands of companies before releasing their products, the harsh reality is that these animals are living lives in cages feeling all sorts of pain just so we can buy certain beauty products or hair products. This is an influence on my project and the idea behind advertising a makeup with animal characteristics to promote and advertise for a cruelty free brand.
The Facts
From PETA's website:
Every year, millions of animals are poisoned and killed in barbaric tests that were crudely developed as long ago as the 1920s to evaluate the toxicity of consumer products and their ingredients. Rats, mice, guinea pigs, rabbits, and other animals are forced to swallow or inhale massive quantities of a test substance or endure the pain of having a chemical eat away at their sensitive eyes and skin––even though the results of animal tests are often unreliable or not applicable to humans.
Acute Toxicity Tests
To determine the toxic consequences of a single, short-term exposure to a product or chemical, the substance is administered to animals (usually rodents) in extremely high doses via force-feeding, forced inhalation, and/or absorption through the skin. Animals in the highest-dose groups may endure severe abdominal pain, diarrhea, convulsions, seizures, paralysis, and bleeding from the nose, mouth, and genitals before they ultimately die.1
Acute toxicity testing began during the World War I era with the now-infamous lethal dose 50 percent (LD50) test, which, even today, remains the most common form of animal-poisoning study. In this test, groups of animals are force-fed increasing amounts of a substance until 50 percent of them die.
Despite its decades of use, the LD50 test and its more contemporary adaptations have never been scientifically validated to confirm that their results are indeed predictive of chemical effects in humans. One international study that examined the results of rat and mouse LD50 tests for 50 chemicals found that these tests were able to predict toxicity in humans with only 65 percent accuracy––while a series of human cell-line tests was found to predict toxicity in humans with about 75 percent accuracy.
Eye- and Skin-Irritation/Corrosion Tests
The Draize eye- and skin-irritation/corrosion test dates back to the 1940s.3 During this test, rabbits are often immobilized in full-body restraints while a substance is dripped into their eyes or smeared onto their shaved skin. Laboratory technicians then record the damage, which can include inflamed skin, ulcers, bleeding, bloody scabs, swollen eyelids, irritated and cloudy eyes, or even blindness, at specific intervals for hours or days.
The scoring of eye and skin damage in the Draize test is highly subjective, and therefore, different laboratories—and even different tests within the same laboratory—often yield different results. In addition, rabbits’ eyes are anatomically and physiologically different from and tend to have stronger reactions to chemicals than humans’ eyes. In contrast, a clinical skin patch test conducted on human volunteers has been shown to produce skin-irritation data that are “inherently superior to that given by a surrogate model, such as the rabbit.
Product Tests
No law requires that cosmetics and household products be tested on animals. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) advises cosmetics manufacturers “to employ whatever testing is appropriate and effective for substantiating the safety of their products” and notes that the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act “does not specifically require the use of animals in testing cosmetics for safety.”5 Likewise, household products regulated by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) do not have to be tested on animals. The CPSC’s animal testing policy, as published in the Federal Register, states, “Neither the FHSA nor the Commission’s regulations requires animal testing. The FHSA and its implementing regulations only require that a product be labeled to reflect the hazards associated with that product.”
Tests That Are Required by Law
By contrast, lawn fertilizers, weedkillers, and household cleaners that make “germ-killing” or “antibacterial” claims on their labels are regulated as pesticides by the Environmental Protection Agency.7 By law, every pesticide must undergo dozens of separate animal tests before it can be marketed, which spells suffering and death for many animals.8 The FDA has similar testing requirements for drugs as well as chemicals that are used as additives or preservatives in processed foods.
Reference: (2016). Animals used for experimentation. [online]. Available from: http://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-experimentation/ [Accessed 20 November 2015].
Trying to Find a Cruelty Free Brand (Also on Context Page)
To the left is a list of some of the well known brands that claim to not test on animals. I began looking at John Freida since they sell a range of hairsprays for different purposes. The brand claim they are cruelty free and sell products that do not test on animals however, they are owned by a mother brand called Kao Brands which do test on animals. This is the problem with advertising a product that makes these claims when the mother company contradicts it.
I began thinking about creating my own hairspray since there are minimal companies that sell cruelty free hairspray for a company that may not necessarily sell hair products but does not test on animals all together and is an independant company.
Lilla. (2012). Companies that don’t use animal testing. 19 May 2012. [online]. Available from: https://beautyandthefreak.wordpress.com/companies-that-dont-use-animal-testing/ [Accessed 26 October 2015]
John Frieda
Superdrug promote their products as cruelty free and they present this with a small leaping bunny logo on all their profucts to show the consumer what they are buying is not tested on animals.
They have a cruelty free section on their website which allows you to look at all of the brands they sell and their own products that are cruelty free. In the hair styling section the only hairsprays that have not been tested on animals are their own brand. This made me wonder how many of the known hair styling brands actually do test on animals and if any what ones don't.
(n.d.). Superdrug.com. [online]. Available from: http://www.superdrug.com/microsite/cruelty-free-makeup [Accessed 26 October 2015].
Superdrug Website
On the PETA website there is a page that you can search companies to find out whether they test on animals and are cruelty free brands. I selected hair styling products to show me a list of hair products that do not test on animals. I have uploaded a picture of the list and on it is not very many brands. I started to think about looking for well known brands and seeing why they are not on this list.
(n.d.). The easy way to go cruelty-free | PETA UK. [online]. Available from: http://www.peta.org.uk/living/easy-way-go-cruelty-free/ [Accessed 26 October 2015].
Peta Website
Cruelty Free Brands
Having considered Lush Cosmetics I wanted to find another company that had similar theories about cruelty free products and animal testing but with a more suitable advertisement look fit for fashion editorial.
Illamasqua are an independant company that sell cosmetics, their target audience is around the 20's mark. They strictly state that they do not test on animals and they are quite passionate about ensuring everyone knows this. They are not owned by a mother company which is great since often the mother company contradicts the animal testing rules they state. They are also on PETA's list of cosmetic brands that 100% do not test on animals. Illamasqua do not sell hairspray however along with make-up they do sell perfume which will be helpful to look at when designing the product.
Illamasqua are strictly against animal testing, on their website they state:
1. Does your company test ingredients or/and finished products on animals?
We do not conduct nor endorse animal testing and all our suppliers commit to this same philosophy.
2. Do you test ingredients or products on animals through a 3rd party? How do you ensure that your manufacturers do not test?
No, we get signed agreements from our manufacturers to state they do not conduct animal testing
3. Do your manufacturers test ingredients or products on animals?
No, as above
4. Are you owned or affiliated with any companies that test products or ingredients on animals?
No, we are an independent brand with no parent company.
5. Do you currently have plans to market and sell your products in the Chinese market, which requires animal testing by law to sell in that country?
Until such time as there is a route to market in China that does not require animal testing, we have and will continue to refrain from selling in this market.
Illamasqua
I did some research into Lush Cosmetics, I had by this point realised that I was most likely going to create my own hair stylying product for a company that prides themselves on being cruelty free. The website and shop clearly states logos that represent them fighting animal testing, that they create fresh products, that they buy ethnically, that they are 100% vegetarian, the products are handmade and that the packaging is 'naked' therefore they dont use branding techniques to sell a product rather than the product itself.
The only problem I face with advertising for this product for Lush Cosmetics is that their advertisement look a lot different to what I am hoping to achieve. The context of the photographs does not suit the fashion editorial images I hope to create so I considered some other brands- one in particular Illamasqua.
(n.d.). Lush fresh handmade cosmetics. [online]. Available from: https://www.lush.co.uk/ [Accessed 26 October 2015].