Georgie Kennett
To prepare the skin I used Mac Cosmetics Prep+Prime skin base visage as a primer to create a layer between the foundation and skin preventing any foundation sinking into the pores. I applied this with a Morphe dual fibre foundation brush that buffs the product into the skin whilst applying.
My models skin is very smooth so it was important to not add too much product to the skin but make sure the complexion was nice and balanced. From the test I knew I needed to cover certain areas of the skin more than before.
Final Shoot
For the base layer of foundation I applied a mixture of a few products with the same dual fibre brush I used to apply the primer. I used a small amount of Mac Studio Fix foundation in shades NC15 and NW20, I also mixed a small drop of Mac Studio Face and Body foudation in WHITE. This mixed together warmed Laura's skin tone up slightly but also matched well with her overall skin colour.
With the Kryolan Trio Ultrafoundation correction colour wheel I applied green veil over any red areas particularly over any red spots to counteract the colour and neautralise the skin tone. I also applied yellow viel under the eye area to counteract any blue/purple colouring from dark circles. I applied this with a small lip brush beforfe applying any foundation.
To make the features pop in front of the camera I added a highlighter to the areas where light naturally hits, for example on the cheekbones, down the nose, on the cupids bow and around the brow bone. The highlighter I used is a Shimmer Brick by Seventeen, I used the lightest shade in the golden bronze brick. I applied this with a large flat concealer blush.
I next applied a small amount of blusher along the cheekbones and apples of the cheek to brighten up the cheeks and make them warm up slightly. I used the Makeup International blusher pallette to achieve the colour in a mixture of shades Salmon and Russet. These shades match the pinky tones in laura's skin tone the best and I did not want to add a strong blusher as there will be lots of blue colourings added which is the main focus however this is to add dimension to the skin and warm it up. The colour was applied with an angled blusher brush.
I next applied a small amount of Mac Prep + Prime highlighter in shade Light Boost. This is used to highlight areas that need to be lighted up, I applied this under the eyes down the centre of the nose, on the cheekbone area, on the brow bone, the centre of th chin and on the cupids bow. This prevents the makeup from looking too flat and adds another dimension.
I did not set the foundation straight away instead I applied a few products before setting. I used a matte bronzer to lightly contour the cheekbones, nose and outer areas of the face. I used Bronzed Perfection by Makeup Academy applied with a flat contour brush. This just adds definition to the features laura has and also makes the face appear more defined without the application of a very heavy contour which is unnecessary.
The third shade I applied was the Naked Cosmetics Twighlight collection in shade 02 which is the colour visible under the eyebrow and is the most irridescent colour out of the set. The powder is actually a silvery colour but once wet it reflects blue shades and is a very light frosty blue metallic colour. I eventually do go in with a bit of a silvery shade on the brow bone but I applied this colour there to add a colour graduation up to the eyebrow and tear duct.
Having tested the colours previously and also in application on my model I had decided to use this colour on the centre of the eyes as the main colour pop and surround the rest of the eyes with additional colours. This particular shade I applied wet with flat eyeshadow brush on the centre area of the eye, the shade is from the Tropical Indulgence Naked Cosmetics Collection in shade 05. it is by far my favourite colour in all the collections and is bold and perfect for this look.
I repeated this on the other side, The metallics are so pigmented and the colours I liked the best from the makeup test work great together. The previous test was quite messy so I foused on the product placement much more on the final shoot. I thought more about exactly where I was placing the colours and why more than ever before.
The second colour I applied was the dark blue Naked Cosmetic shadow from the Heavy Metal collection in shade 06. I applied this to the outer eye socket sweeping back past the eyebrows to the temple area. I applied this here to create more of an angled eye and sweeping shapes to create the bird like features.
I added one more colour to the light catching areas of the eye to brighten up the eye area and add depth to the colours. I used 01 silver from the Naked Cosmetics Heavy Metal collection. The colour is a very pigmented silver and I used this on the tear duct area, right under the brow bone and alond the inner half of the bottom lash line with a small eyeshadow brush.
This is just before I finished touching up the socket colours however at this point I was really happy with the colour selections and felt like the product placement was much better than before and I was glad I had gone away and really thought about how I could improve on the previous test.
I then went back in with the shade 02 from the Twighlight collection which is the white irridescent blue colour. I applied this colour back over the cheekbones over the temple area and up to the sides of the forehead and also down the nose with the previous colour. I did this to spread the colour further to tie in the face and the eyes together as one look to differentiate the look from a beauty make-up.
I extended the colour down either side of the nose with another blue shade from the Naked Cosmetics collection Twilight in the shade 04. This is a blue irridescent colour when wet. The reason I extended the colour was to create a bird like angle on the eyes, it made the colours look more characteristic by not just keeping the colour on the eyelid which is what I wanted since the look is more of a character than a makeup.
In the full make-up test I had gone in too early with the eyebrows and didnt consider the pigments that might get brushed over the eyebrows and ruin them. This time I waited until after finishing the shadows to begin the brows. My model has naturally quite a lot of brow hairs which is great since I did not want to mess around and add too much product to them.
The picture above is of the eyes closed to show the eyeshadows and eyebrows together, the eyebrows definitely change the eye look for the better. It was now time to add some colour elsewhere.
I was happy with the colour graduation and the chosen colours I had used, I was confident I had finished the eyeshadow so it was then time to add to other features and later come back to the eyes to add finishing touches.
I just used Benefit They're Real Brow mascara and brushed the hair upwards so they were spikey and extended. The picture above also shows how metallic the eyeshadows are. There is a clear difference in the eyebrows just from this one product and I did not feel the need to add anything else as I did not want them to look caked.
I applied a thin line of gel eyeliner over the lash line to again widen and define the eyes without taking any attention away from the eyeshadow. I used Collection 2000 lasting gel eyeliner in black applied with a small angled eyeliner brush.
On the lips I used A blue Khol liner in shade gleaming turquiose to line the lips before applying colour to keep the colour from spreading but also to define the lips. I then applied Twighlight Naked Cosmetics shade in 04 on the plump of the lip and Heavy Metal Naked Cosmetics shade 06 on the inner part of the lip to make the colour on the outer edges pop and add a depth to the inside lip.
I applied the same dark colour to the underpart of the cheekbone to create some definition with the blue and also to link the whole look together as the blue looked fragmented at this point. I also fInished the look by using NYX Dewy Finish setting spray to add some natural dewyness to the skin but also set the makeup in place.
To open up the eyes and define I applied some masara to the lashes, again I did not want to over do the eye make-up as I wanted all the attention to be on the eyeshadow. I applied a couple of layers of Tarte Gifted mascara applied with a mascara applicator for health and safety reasons.
I brushed the hair through with a denman brush to start with. I then sectioned the hair after I had tested where to sit the frame and where best was comfortable for the model. The Middle part of hair that was going underneath the frame I tied into a ponytail high on the head.
I then put a donut ring around the onytail and covered it with the hair protruding through the middle in the ponytail. I then used the excess length of that hair to create pin curls all around the donut so that these could be used as anchor points with the excess net tabs I had left on the bottom of the frame.
The front section I had left down because I wanted to flatter Laura's face shape as much as possible and pulling all her hair back would have looked quite harsh on her face and the aim was to make her remain beautiful while influencing a character.
The rest of the hair was left to add extensions to and then cover the frame once in place and secured.
The front parts of the hair were swept to the sides and pinned into place, this was most flattering for Laura's heart shaped face. I made sure that the wings could still flap and they could when laura moved her head backwards and forwards.
I had clipped in the wefted extensions I made to laura's hair but surrounding the hair frame so it could be styled upwards. I then backcombed section by section of lauras surrounding hair around the hair frame haispraying as I went and brushed the hair up and over the hair frame to completely cover the frame and all the wire and netting.
I brushed the hair up and over the top of the front of the hair frame towards the back as the front of the hair was my main concern as this would be what was photographed most. the remaining hair extension ends and very ends of laura's hair was then pin curled down the top section of the back to get rid of any ends.
Some steps I forgot to photograph.The frame was placed on laura's head and attached with the net tabs through anchor points in her hair. She had reassured me she was comfortable throughout and that it was not hurting her neck and was comfortable because that is vital. The models comfort was my main concern but she assured me it was comfortable and also not too heavy which was a bonus of using the thinner and lighter wire.
The back was slightly messy but I was happy with the rest and the back was not a main concern for me. I finished the look by applying some silver hair spray over the top of the forehead heading into the hair and over the roots. This again added another dimention and shine to the already metallic look.
Once laura was in costume the whole look came together much more. Although the back was messy it was more of an organised mess as is visible in the picture above.
Unfortunately I did not get a video of the wings actually flapping backwards and forwards which they did but this is still visible in the actual hair frame which wings move. Instead I did manage to get very brief videos of the hair moving around and the wings moving around which is good because it shoes me that my hair frame was secure, comfortable and also flexible.
Unedited Outcome
I was really happy with the outcome and my main concern was the hair frame because I was not sure if it was going to move in the way I wanted it to but it did which was great. Laura was comfortable and an enthusiastic model which instantly showed in the studio since we managed to get the shots within the first 15 minutes of the studio time. This allowed us to carry on shooting and testing different things in the studio just because we had hours of time to play with. The only thing I would perhaps change if I were to do it again would be to add some more greens like the astrapia bird. However the astrapia bird has many different colours that aren't always visible at one time so this does definitely reflect the colouring of the bird and I am still very much happy with the outcome.
Something that became very apparant to me after the shoot was how calm I was during the application. I have been known to worry and panic quite a lot during assessments and run throughs however this application was completely different and I think it is down to being confident in my abilities and knowing exactly what I am doing without rushing. It made me realise how far I have come since the beginning of university and progressing into Level 6 I am applying what I have learnt through the past two years in my work without realising.