Georgie Kennett
Make-Up Trends
A/W 2015 Vogue
A/W 2015 Mac
RED 70S
LOVE WORN
STRENGTH OF BEAUTY
BEAUTIFUL AND DAMNED
Rich-Girl Beauty
Donna KaranThe autumn/winter 2015 shows ushered in a sophisticated take on beauty - rather than zoning in on one feature we instead saw perfected skin, lightly flushed cheeks and subtle shading combined to create a rich, groomed look at shows such as Donna Karan, Herve Leger, Bottega Veneta and Prada.
In Knots
Isabel MarantFrom French-girl buns at Isabel Marant to messy chignons at Giorgio Armani and Vera Wang, the autumn/winter 2015 alternative to messy waves is a chic knot. At Marc Jacobs they made their way to the front of the head as gravity-defying topknots, whilst the look made the perfect accompaniment for smoky eye make-up on the Diane von Furstenberg catwalk.
On The Waterline
Roberto CavalliBlack eyeliner is always in style, but knowing where and how to wear it is key. For autumn/winter 2015, kohl was applied right onto the waterline - the area between the bottom lashes and the eye itself - for an instant cool-girl effect. At Lanvin, Versace and Erdem the liner was continued all around the eyes, whilst at Victoria Beckham and Roberto Cavalli it was diffused down through the lashes in a reverse smoky effect that looked entirely modern.
The New Hair Up
PradaLimp, loose waves are set to be a thing of catwalks past, with hairstylists returning to proper up-dos for autumn/winter 2015. There were elegant chignons at Oscar de la Renta and ribbon-tied French twists at Chanel, whilst elegant buns at Balenciaga whispered of an almost couture-like sensibility. Many also came adorned with highly covetable accessories, the best of which were surely the jewelled clips pinning Guido Palau's topknot ponytails in place at Prada.
The Return Of Lip Gloss
RodarteAs New York Fashion Week kicked off, we noticed something we hadn't seen in a very long time - models sporting good, old-fashioned lip gloss. It made for high-shine pouts at Rag & Bone, Rodarte, Fendi and Roland Mouret, whilst it ventured onto the brows at Christopher Kane, the lids at Nina Ricci and even the cheeks at David Koma.
The Anti Red Lip
Marc JacobsThere was barely a red lip to be found backstage at the autumn/winter 2015 shows, with make-up arists opting instead for rich berry hues, pale pinks and warm blush tones. Rather than acting as a statement piece, lips became part of an overall look - at Topshop Unique and Donna Karan it even made its way onto cheeks as well for a truly tonal flush.
Outdoorsy Types
Topshop UniqueBare-faced beauty might be taking a back seat this season, but the new take on natural beauty is a healthy, outdoorsy radiance. At Topshop Unique the look was inspired by the windswept hair and weather-flushed cheeks of well-bred beauties in the great outdoors, whilst Prabal Gurung's girls had a post-hike glow and Michael Kors's models were as wholesomely radiant as always. At MaxMara the look was directly inspired by Marilyn Monroe on the beach, so just imagine perfect hair and make-up and add salt spray.
Luxurious Hair
RochasThe rich-girl beauty trend didn't stop at the make-up - luxurious, expensive-looking blow-outs were on show at Thakoon, Donna Karan and Balmain, whilst the sleek, uptown styles at Rochas were accessorised with elegant matt barrettes. Book your repeat salon appointments in now.
Baby Hairs
Stella McCartneyYes, baby hairs are a trend, whether you like it or not. They showed up intricately coiled and slicked FKA Twigs-style at Givenchy (Katy Perry wore a similar look on the front row), whilst at Vera Wang and Stella McCartney they were stuck in damp, sporty strands around models' faces. At Giles they escaped, tuft-like, around models' ears, bringing Victoriana plaits decidedly up to date.
Lashings Of Lashes
Giambattista ValliMascara can feel like something of a dirty words backstage at the shows, where make-up artists often shun it in favour of the clean, stark look that bare lashes bring. This season it was back in a big way, with layer upon layer of mascara creating doll-like looks at Giambattista Valli, Nina Ricci, Blumarine and Alberta Ferretti.
This trend is about the color black, a smouldery waterline, black lips for a dramatic effect which are lined with an elegant precision but also about the black liner. The secret is about the contrast. The entire MAC Beautiful and Damned trend is about diversity and intention behind these lines. The effect must be an effortless makeup look even though you can notice the precision on the lines. Black has always been the ultimate constant so this season makeup artists are exploring how to interpret the anarchic side of its spirit in the most beautiful ways.
The essentials:
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Feline Kohl Power Eye Pencil – Blackest of black kohl formula
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Black Chromaline – Pigmented and long-wear gel liner formula
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Beg For It Into the Well Eye Shadow – Wet/dry carbon black shadow liner
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Extreme Dimension 3D Black Lash – High volume, high definition carbon black mascara
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Media Lipstick – Chic blackened red
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Spiked Eye Brows – Universal charcoal brown eyebrow pencil
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White Face and Body Foundation -Porcelain luminescence in the iconic Face and Body formula.
This trend is about the tension between the done and the undone, playing with nuanced
shades and subtle textures in a sparing way. Everything must be blended, without showing an evident texture while the first impression should be of fresh skin. This is actually my favorite MAC FW 2015 trend as the makeup looks more polished, the face is defined but without changing it, so that inner beauty sparkles from within. You can do a define brow, a pink blush, bronzer or mascara to sharpen your features.
The essentials:
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Dark Golden Mineralize Skin Finish Natural – Universal honey-toned bronzer
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Vintage Selection Pro Longwear Paint pot – A dewy, tea-stained cream shadow
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Studio Sculpt DEFINING Powder – Soft focus, ultra lightweight gel-powder
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Sweet Persuasion Huggable Glass – An elegant light pink, lip-plumping shine
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M·A·C Studio Waterweight SPF 30/PA++ with Foundation – Akin to a second skin, luminously natural matte coverage
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Clear Brow Set – The classic, instant brow grooming tool
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Just a Wisp Mineralize Blush – For a fresh feminine flush.
This is a trend that everyone will love as it takes classic makeup to the next level. A nuanced version of something that used to be quite done. Fresh skin is the key while the eye makeup tells the story of the woman who wears it. Last night’s mascara, rubbed-off liner, creased kohl and nebulous shadow are the key components, technicality applied by “working through a makeup backwards,” says Lyne Desnoyers. “It’s about putting it on and taking it off until the perfect remnant remains.”
The essentials:
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Ebony Eye Pencil – A blendable, soft slate-black
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Tailor Grey PRO LONGWEAR PAINT POT – Creates a natural, mink-grey smokiness
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M·A·C Studio Conceal and Correct palette – The indispensable tool for the subtlest correction
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Prep + Prime Lip – A smart, matte lip perfector
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Mineralize Timecheck Lotion – The ultimate skin veil, for the smoothest canvas
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Groundwork Pro Longwear Paint Pot – An invisible, but eye-brightening cream “real shadow”
This trend represents the reinvention of red lips in red brick, rusty red and new nuances of red. The classical red lip is not more trendy so we are talking about a little twist of red, a true crimson or rusty tones that are less obvious.
The essentials:
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Caramel and Terracotta Prep + Prime – CC Colour Correcting SPF 30/PA++ Correctors used as shadows for rich 70’s suede tones
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Chili Lipstick – Sophisticated, timeless terracotta
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High Drama M·A·C Retro Matte Liquid – A rich oxblood
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Clear Lipglass – A shot of high vinyl in a tube
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Dance with Me M·A·C Retro Matte Liquid – Classic cherry red
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Uninterrupted Pro Longwear Eye Shadow – Bohemian mustard brown
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Mahogany and Auburn Lip Pencils – For a precise sculpted lip, in classic russet tones
Beauty, V. (2015). Autumn/winter 2015 beauty trends. [online]. Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2015/03/13/hair-beauty-trends-for-autumn-winter-2015 [Accessed 3 November 2015].
A/W Trend Examples
BEAUTIFUL AND DAMNED
STRENGTH OF BEAUTY
LOVE WORN
RED 70S
DIOR
Peter Phillips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Make-Up, created a graphic look at the show with an intense palette of deep autumnal shades. The hair was styled in super sleek ponytails.
GILES
Models including Kendall Jenner walked the Giles catwalk in London portraying a spooky gothic glamour. Slick black lips were the main focus.
PACO RABANNE
Two key trends were present at Paco Rabanne in Paris: baby hairs as fringe benefits and oversized eyeliner. It looks like it's an eyes-over-lips season so far.
ROCHAS
'Bambi eyes' took on a new form at Rochas in Paris where makeup artist Lucia Poeroni graphically painted the models' upper and lower eyelids with floating black liner.
GIAMBA
While Milan Fashion Week is usually all about polished glamour, Giamba broke the rules with multiple fake tattoos drawn all over the models. Makeup legend Val Garland asked herself "What would Cara [Delevingne] do?" and this was the results. We also love the skinny plaits positioned in the front of their hair, which jazz up ponytails a treat.
EMANUEL UNGARO
The natural hair at Emanuel Ungaro was given a 'glunge' makeover thanks to a statement blackberry lip. Wow! Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni was behind the look using MAC.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Femininity was the theme at Dolce & Gabbana where models showcased 13 different hues of Dolce Matte lipsticks. Eye makeup was soft and gentle framed by sculpted brows courtesy of The Brow Liner in Chestnut. The up-dos were adorned with gold jewellery for a regal look.
BALMAIN
Balmain is always our go-to show for the barefaced beauty trend and they've shown it's on point again for AW15. Models including Gigi Hadid (pictured) showcased glowing skin with slightly stained pink lips and brushed brows.
TOME
Subtle skin highlights such as glossy eyelids balanced the "masculine brows" that James Boehmer, Nars Director of Global Artistry, created on the models at Tome. This delicate beauty is all in the details.
MOSCHINO
Milan does bombshell beauty like no other city and Gigi Hadid modelled it beautifully at Moschino with her textured blow-dry and sunbaked-bronze makeup. Minimal makeup yet super-sexy.
PUCCI
The hair at Pucci had super-sleek glossy roots leading out from a straight centre parting contrasted with more matte texture ends. The MAC makeup was low-key but luxury.
PRADA
High ponytails were given a twist at Prada with some stunning crystal clips. The makeup was minimal, with warm contours and nude lips.
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Hair legend Sam McKnight recreated the perfect beachy waves at Cavalli and the makeup had a sexy rock 'n' roll vibe with lots of lower liner and fat lashes.
FENDI
We loved the sporty headbands at Fendi which accessorised loose knots at the nape of the neck. The makeup by Dior's Peter Philips was all bout graphic eye lines and spider leg lashes.
VERSACE
Models including Karlie Kloss rocked Versace in Milan with sexy tousled hair and heavily kohled eyes. Grunge meets glamour in the most beautiful way.
MAX MARA
"Marilyn Monroe at the beach" was how superstylist Sam McKnight described this look at Max Mara in Milan. We love the sea breezy-textured faux bobs and fresh but sexy makeup by MAC.
FELDER FELDER
Beautiful floating eyeliner was the order of the day at Felder Felder where makeup artist Attracta Courtney used Zoeva makeup, inspired by 60s edgy glamour. Just above the eyelid crease she used the Graphic Eyes + pencil in 'Black to Earth', then a mixture of eye shadows in 'Harmony' (a mink grey) and 'Wonder Full' (a matte mocha) from the Rose Gold Eye Shadow Palette to soften and set the line.
BURBERRY PRORSUM
Makeup Artistic Consultant for Burberry,Wendy Rowe used the luxe label's beauty collection to create smoky eyes inspired by natural earthy tones. The matte nude lips and warm skin complemented the look beautifully.
CAROLINA HERRERA
Models including Karlie Kloss showcased the "wrapped pony" at Carolina Herrera in New York. Orlando Pita, hair stylist for TRESemmé, says to tightly weave a ribbon or thin strip of leather around your ponytail to make this work, with lots of hairspray for a sleek finish.
DENNIS BASSO
70s glamour makeup reigned at Dennis Basso in New York, with celeb makeup artist Lauren Anderson using Avon's True Colour Eyeshadow Quad in Mocha Latte in shade #2, Glimmerstick Eye Liner in Cosmic Brown and Super Extended Winged Out Mascara for super-sexy eyes.
KRISTIAN AADNEVIK
Twiggy's lined peepers and Brigitte's big bouffant are frequent points of reference backstage, but get ready to meet a very different kind of hair and makeup muse. Kristian Aadnevik has modernised the look of the Duke of Wellington's wife to bring us soft, multi-tonal locks and English Rose red pouts. The lips came courtesy of Lord & Berry's Vogue-Matte Lipstick in Red Carpet and 20100 Crayon Lipstick in Scarlett blended together. Lord & Berry creative director, Mikaela Alleyson blotted down the hues to give them a softer, stained effect as opposed to something "too perfect".
MONIQUE LHUILLIER
Inspired by "Kate Moss' sensual edginess" stylist Recine for Moroccanoil created cool asymmetric ponytails with a deep side parted section left loose at the front of the hair. Makeup combined two beauty classics: a vivid red lip and winged smoky eyes courtesy of MAC.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Makeup artist Francelle Daly said "Utilitarian punk is the direction this season" and the tough oxblood red shade on the models' lips at Phillip Lim came courtesy of the new Nars VIP Red Lipstick (out in Autumn 2015, for now try Mysterious Red Velvet Matte Lip Pencil).
Image References: Bridget, Kenyon, Z., and Capon, L. (2015). The coolest fashion week beauty trends - from glamour to grunge. [online]. Available from: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/news/g3973/autumn-winter-2015-hair-makeup-trends/ [Accessed 3 November 2015].